Mt. Geumosan: My first true Korean hiking experience

Hiking is a huge hobby of mine back home and, living in the PNW, we have the perfect playground for it.  So when I heard hiking was considered the number one sport in Korea, I was pretty excited.

A few weekends ago we were invited for a braai (a South African BBQ) in Gumi, a city about forty-five minutes away.  We figured this would be a great opportunity to check out Mt. Geomosan, one of the main hikes in our area.  So after braaiing on Saturday, Sunday morning we set out from our Love Motel (ah yes... I'll add a p.s. to this post to explain the infamous Love Motel), taking a taxi to the parking lot at the foot of the mountain.  Stocked with plenty of water and a few snacks, we walked up the road to the "trail head".

The Trailhead

Now, most of the hikes I've been on, the fanciest a trail head gets is a parking lot, a sign, maybe a campground with water.  Perhaps a map that you may or may not be able to read and possibly, if the trail starts off at some sort of viewpoint, a wooden platform or fence that allows you to get a better look at the waterfall or mountain without falling to your death. 

Right after the trailhead

Trail heads in Korea, at least for well known hikes, are apparently another story entirely.  There are several buildings, maybe a coffee shop (or two), a place to pick up a handout map and color brochure (or two), a sign (or four) to show you your route and a HUGE wide path to start your journey.  In addition, there will quite possibly (as in this case) be a Buddhist temple.  Oh, and public restrooms.  No squatting behind a tree here!  There was also this machine with hoses that blew out air-- people were using them to spray air all over themselves after returning from their hike.  Maybe to get the dust or pollen off your clothes and hair? 

And also, the cable car.  On longer, more popular hikes, there are often cable cars to help you up and down the first leg of the trail.  We actually missed them on our way up, but managed to find the entrance on our way down. 

Hidden Temples on the Trail

When Buddhism was introduced into Korea, the indigenous religion was Shamanism.  Because Buddhism didn't completely clash with the idea of nature worship, it was able to sort of blend itself in.  The mountains that were believed to be the residence of spirits often became the sites of Buddhist temples.  This is why, when hiking, you often stumble up on a temple or two hidden away in the mountains.

Neon Neon Everywhere

In addition to the well equipped trail head and looming temple, something else that you will immediately notice is neon. Neon, neon everywhere.  Jackets, shirts, pants, shoes, hiking poles.  Koreans GEAR UP for their hike with specialty clothing and equipment, and each said piece is unforgivingly neon in color.  I felt downright dull in my gray pants, brown keens, blue t-shirt and black camelbak.

Getting Started

Even with the touristy feel as we started, surrounded by neon clad people and coffee shops, we were optimistic.  It was so nice to be back in the forest.  The smell of the pine needles and recently blooming flowers, the sound of the creek.  And everything was beautiful shades of bright new green.  The scenery was lovely and peaceful, and as we climbed higher (and higher, and higher) the views only got better. 

The Trail

One of my favorite things about Korean trails so far is the Buddhist culture that the hikes are often centered around.  We started out at a temple that was decorated with lanterns in anticipation of Buddha's birthday.

The temple at the start of the trail

As we climbed, we came to an offshoot path that lead to a cave.  The path itself was awesome, scrambling up rocks with pretty rod iron chains to keep you from falling thousands of feet below. Coming to the cave itself, first there's the view.  You can see the cable cars making their way over the trees, and far in the distance the skyscrapers that make up the city of Gumi.  In the back of the shallow cave, an outlet is carved out and set up with Buddha statues and lit candles.  Insense for offering and mats to sit on as you perform the ritual of getting on your knees and bowing three times before spending a few minutes in silent prayer.

The view from the cave

After the cave there was a waterfall where many people were choosing to picnic.  Then you climbed a billion stairs to reach another viewpoint, and continued up, up and up.

The view after you finish climbing the staircases.  The gap you see is the cave from earlier.

This was probably one of the most difficult hikes I've done.  I think that most of that stems from not being prepared.  We had all the food and water we needed, luckily, but when we were told about this hike, it was made to sound like it was a three hour round trip morning hike up the mountain.  Ha.  As we followed the signs, at first I thought it was just our math, converting kilometers to miles, that was making it take longer than we thought.  But I swear the sign would say 1.2 kilometers to the summit, and then, a minimum of 1 kilometer later, say .9 kilometers to the summit.  It was the never ending hike, and I thought my legs were going to give out.  No switchbacks, just straight up the mountain.  If we knew what we were getting into, we would have paced ourselves better.  However, we thought the steep climb was much shorter than in reality, so we just went all out, clambering up the side of the mountain thinking the top was just around the corner.
 


There were definitely moments where it was necessary to let out a stream of well chosen words expressing my displeasure at the incorrect signs.  There were also several moments where clinging to the back of Jesse's backpack helped me up a couple legs of steep incline : ) One of my favorite moments was when a few middle-aged Korean couples saw this and laughed, then the women proceeded to follow my lead and have their husbands tote them up the incline, giggling the whole way.

Almost to the top!

The climb was one hundred percent worth it.  The top gives you a 360 degree view.  The city is far below as a marker of how far you've come.  And the best part was a temple, right at the very top of the mountain.  I can't imagine the work it must have taken to build it so high up and on such precarious peaks.  There were also small mountains of stones.  Place a stone on the stack and make a wish.  Luckily we took pictures, because there are no real words that can describe how amazing it was to find a temple on the top of a mountain.    

The temple at the top of the mountain.

Add a stone for luck.

At the summit

Coming down was much quicker, but as always, hard on the knees.  I definitely want to buy hiking poles before attempting a hike like that again.  Almost every Korean had them, and now I know why!  We found the entrance to the cable car on the way down.  The feeling of floating over the trees was almost as wonderful as not having to walk downhill anymore.  

It was a beautiful hike and I'm so glad we made it to the top.  Hiking in Korea is such a great experience and its accessibility is a huge relief after all the very difficult to get to hikes in Thailand.
 
With all this said, we did have several "What the HELL?" moments.  (In addition to the hike being doubly long and triply steep than we originally thought).

What the HELL moments

I've covered a couple of them-- no switchbacks, the mini village that every trail seems to start from, the signs giving distances that I'm sure had to be incorrect. The neon colors and fantastic hiking equipment (seriously, it looks like people are hiking in the Olympic Games or something.)  Here are just a few more: 

Number One:
Stairs to help you up the mountain.  After the waterfall, there was staircase upon staircase to get you up to the next viewpoint.  Halfway up the mountain, instead of a proper trail, you climb up several hundred stairs. And not stairs that were just carved out of the mountain, but actual wooden staircases leveled above the ground.  What the hell?  It was very strange to us.

Number Two:
The little Ajumas flying by while you stand gasping for breath.  An Ajuma is a little old Korean lady, often with a bent back, who is very probably decked out in a visor, a face mask that covers everything under her eyes, and long sleeves no matter what the temperature.  There were several times, mostly after we realized that this was no quick jaunt up the hill, that we would stop and take a water break, me most likely commenting on how everyone who told us about this hike are liars, whoever made the signs is an incompetent idiot, and how I couldn't feel my legs.  (It was a great hike, but I like knowing what I'm getting in to.  At this point it could have been several more days to the top for all we knew.)  And I'm pretty sure every time we took a breather, several little Ajumas sailed on past.  At least these times we were sitting-- more demoralizing was when tackling a particularly steep hill you have to move over so the little lady can get by.  I'm in fairly decent shape, as is Jesse, but these tiny old ladies, dressed in their best hiking gear, visors and face masks in place, were amazing.  It was very obvious that hiking is something that is done often and with much pleasure here.   

THE WORST,  Number Three:  
Music with no headphones. 
As we climbed past and through other hikers, there were several occasions in which we were assaulted with other peoples' music.  You may think assaulted is too strong a word.  But these fellow hikers would have their cell phones out, music BLASTING from the speakers, with no headphones on as they hiked up the trail.  What the HELL?  In America, you would be given the look of death from every hiker you came across.  The people around the perpetrator gave it no mind, and as we passed this phenomenon several times I can only assume its acceptable behavior (which I later confirmed with my co-teacher).  But to me, it was just plain RUDE.  I don't go out into nature to listen to other peoples' crappy music.  Luckily, we only happened upon this several times at the beginning of the trail.  And even more luckily, there weren't speakers lining the trail playing music, which has been the case on other trails we've explored.

Even with the cultural differences that bombard you even when hiking through the woods, I can't wait to go on another hike here.  It's so great how accessible they are and the reward of a view and peaceful temple when you get to the top, well, you can't really ask for much more.  (Except for maybe a switchback or two...) 

The view of the mountain from the parking lot.

The P.S. I promised

 

The Love Motel

At the beginning of this post I mentioned the Love Motel and I feel the need to offer a bit of an explanation.  In Korea, as with most countries excepting America, children don't move out at the age of 18.  Many live with their parents until they're married, well into adult hood.  This cultural choice created the phenomenon of the Korean Love Motel.  Just because they're living with Mom and Dad, doesn't mean that these Korean adults don't want to get a little friendly with their significant other.  And as they are apparently courteous enough not to partake in their parents' household, they needed somewhere to go.  So these are hotels where you have the option to pay by the hour.  They are also a cheaper option as a place to spend the whole night.

The funny thing is, the parking garage that the hotel often boasts is dark, with dark panels that remind me of going into a car wash, covering the entrance so that people walking by can't see what cars are parked inside.  Leading me to believe that the hotels probably host both unmarried couples getting away from the folks as well as the adulterous with only an hour or two to spare.

When I first heard about this, I was a little wary.  Eww, was my first thought at staying somewhere that was built just so people could get it on away from home.  But our friends assured us that in addition to being fairly cheap, they were incredibly clean and very cool looking rooms.  I'm glad we got over our initial hesitation because they were very right.  The first love motel we stayed in was awesome.  We've stayed in two different love hotels so far.  Both have been great, but also pre-approved by friends.  I'm sure there are some creepy ones out there-- I don't know if I would be brave enough to stay in one without a recommendation.

Arriving at the hotel, you walk in say "one room" through a small open panel at the front desk. The front desk reminds me of where you buy tickets to go to the movies, except you can't see the person behind the very tinted window.  Prices are listed on the outside.  After we completed this transaction, they slid us the key and the overnight necessities-- wrapped toothbrush, toothpaste, some sample packs of lotion and whatnot.  The hallways looked like they were part of a disco club, complete with disco ball on the ceiling and neon lights.  The room itself had a gold satin covered love seat, gold satin headboard, purple curtains, chandeliers, and blue lights to give the bathroom a nice glow.  The shower had this huge shower head, the kind that you stand directly under and it pours on top of you like a waterfall.  Teapot, flat screen TV and desktop computer with internet.  All for about $40USD.  It was also spotless (at least from what we could see, which is all I let myself worry about when staying in any hotel.)  They do leave you a small package of condoms on the nightstand.  At least they're being responsible and helping prevent the spread of disease and babies!  If you're a foreigner though, just a heads up, condoms are made smaller here.  We heard this rumor so of course had to check.  It's true.

The only downside is that you can't make a reservation, so you just show up and hope they have a room available.

Jesse has some pictures of the room on his camera, I'll get them and post them soon!